Pets / Wildlife

Fleas are parasites which feed off the blood of a host, most often the host is an animal, but when fleas are on your pets they are also in your home and not soon after will be on you and your family.

Being in the middle of a flea infestation isn't fun. Fleas can jump up to 13 inches and not because they are practicing to be in the circus center ring. Fleas will jump off of your pet and onto you and your family.

If you have a problem with fleas, you will need to apply a comprehensive flea treatment and stay on top of it to prevent the fleas from getting out of control.

Fleas are very tiny, almost invisible if you don't know what you're looking for. I'm sure you're asking, 'what do fleas look like'. A fleas coloring is dark, between brown and dark red.

Fleas have thin flat bodies; hard exteriors, six long legs and are covered in hairs which assist them in latching on and traveling through the fur or hairs of its host.

A flea life cycle is simple. Flea eggs can hatch as fast as 2 days and can stay dormant for up to 1 year. Flea eggs hatch into larvae and will feed on feces or any organic material. The larvae spin a cocoon in about a week or two an adult flea will emerge from its cocoon.

Fleas are not always visible, but if there are fleas on you, you will know by the uncomfortable itching and relentless scratching of the skin. Fleas are big on the creepy crawly factor and a total gross out.

Flea bites on humans is not something unheard of, in fact fleas will feed on human blood, though they prefer the blood of an animal. Now you're probably wondering, what do flea bites look like.

Flea bites are small and red, sort of like any insect bite. Flea bites itch and can become infected if not treated. A flea's bite can also transmit the parasite called hookworm. In pets hookworm can be treated without a problem, but in people it can become a serious illness and should be treated immediately by a doctor. Minor flea bites can be treated with a topical application of calamine lotion to control the discomforting affects of itching.

To get a flea infestation under control you will need to exterminate the fleas from your home, pets and human family members. Using natural flea control home remedies is recommended but if you are at your wits end, you can use toxic chemicals to kill fleas in every stage of their life cycle.

Getting rid of fleas in a house is rather easy, but it takes time and diligence. The following are the steps to take when ridding your cat, dog, family and home of a flea infestation.

Step 1 - Quarantine

Quarantine all pets to one location.

Step 2 - Wash

Wash all fabric items around the house, pay close attention to the areas where pets hang out and sleep. If you pet sleeps in your bed, you are sleeping with fleas too, so wash your bedding as well.

Step 3 - Vacuum

Vacuum all the carpets in your home at least once a week. Put about 6 mothballs in the vacuum cleaner bag before vacuuming, mothballs ward off fleas and prevent them from settling in places you don't want them to be. The night before you are going to vacuum sprinkle table salt all over your carpet, salt will dehydrate the fleas and kill them.

Step 4 - Bathe

Bathe your cat or dog in salt water, salt is a great way to kill fleas. Fill a sink or tub, large enough to accommodate your pet. It should be deep and wide enough for you to submerge your pet's entire body. Be careful not to allow your pet to drink the water and be sure not to allow your pets head to go directly under water paying close attention to the ears.

When the fleas become aware of the harmful salt water, they will immediately run to higher ground, most often than not they will head for the head area. Push them away from the head in a backward motion from your pet's eyes and into the salt water.

Comb your pet thoroughly. Flea combs work all well and good, but a lice comb works the best. Try to purchase a metal lice comb, this comb will catch the fleas between its teeth and hold them there. Regular flea combs have a wider gap between the teeth allowing fleas to just slip right through them and disappear back into the fur or hair of your pet.

To kill fleas collected in the comb, fill a bowl with everyday mouthwash. It doesn't matter what kind of mouthwash, any mouthwash kills fleas instantly. When the comb catches a flea, pull it off, keeping it between your fingers and dip your fingers into the mouthwash.

Be sure the flea stays in the bowl and not on your fingers. In seconds the fleas will die. By the time your done removing the fleas from your pet, this bowl will be filled with fleas and resemble a rather morbid swimming pool.

An important thing to remember is that fleas can jump really high, so as your bathing your pet they will fight for their lives just like anyone else, so try to push the fleas into the salt water bath to kill them before you become the main dish on their dinner menu.

By following the steps provided, you can rid your home and family of a flea infestation in a matter of weeks without using harmful toxic chemicals. You must keep up the regiment on a weekly basis for about a month; two months would be better to insure you got them all.

If your pets frequent the outdoors you may have to continue this process indefinitely, but the remedies mentioned above work very well.

Mice are by nature are timid and although they can be tamed some will bite when frightened. Pet mice become dormant if food is scarce and temperatures drop. They are naturally nocturnal and require frequent cage cleaning to minimize odor.

Mice are tamed by short frequent periods of handling. Food is a useful tool to lure a pet mouse in the beginning introduction. The correct way to pick up a mouse is to grasp it near the base of the tail then transfer it at once to another support. Never squeeze a mouse, if fear is a factor when handling a mouse don't, mice are more afraid of people and there is a risk of accidental biting.

Food should always be available because mice have a high metabolic rate and use up food energy quickly. Oats or wheat and seeds should form the bulk of the diet, together with nuts, brown breads, some greens and milk. Water should be provided in a gravity flow bottle.

As per Animal World pet mouse will spend virtually their entire life inside their cages, making a healthy environment essential to their well being.

Cages may be bought or made, but make sure that they are large enough to allow sufficient exercise and provide separate areas for sleeping, eating and eliminating. Cages must be cleaned regularly about every 3 days and kept out of drafts, dampness and direct sunlight.

A pet mouse likes to climb and play if the housing does not provide enough activities to stimulate the pet it may become ill.

To assure the pet mouse will have a happy and healthy life the following items are suggested:

Removable food bowl

Gravity-flow water bottle (fresh water daily)

Unpainted hardwood or stick for gnawing

Nest box with bedding of wood shavings, hay or un-dyed paper

Ladder and shelf

Wheel for exercise

Pet shops provide innovative accessories for a pet mouse; decide what choices suit your mouse's needs. Too many toys in the cage is not recommended, however if multiple toys are obtained switch them around with every cage cleaning. Interchanging cage toys will keep your pet mouse continuously stimulated making for a very happy mouse.

A pet mouse will generally remain healthy provided they are properly housed and fed. Failure to provide proper care will take its toll on the mouse resulting in their death. The life expectancy of the average mouse is 3 to 4 years but a healthy pet mouse can live 5 to 6 years.

A mouse's teeth are adapted for gnawing and continue to grow continually throughout their lives. Objects such as scraps of wood or pet store purchased chew toys must be provided to assure proper tooth wear. If a pet mouse is not provided proper items to gnaw on their teeth will become overgrown and prevent the animal from ingesting food and water.

Pet mice can be obtained in almost every pet store; it is not advised to keep a wild mouse as a pet. Wild mice are know to carry diseases and are rarely tame enough to handle. Avoid animals that have been kept in dirty, overcrowded conditions. Always see animals handled before buying, avoid nervous or bad-tempered individuals.

When purchasing a pet mouse be sure to choose only healthy looking mice.

The following are clear signs of a healthy mouse:

Clean ears, without blemishes

Bright eyes

Nose free from mucus or blemishes

Free movement

Soft silky coat no hair loss

Strong solid body

No signs of diarrhea (check under tail)

Tail not blemished or swollen

When purchasing a pet mouse be sure to look out for any signs of illness or disease.

The following are clear signs of mouse diseases:

Lethargy Reluctance to move

Staggering, poor coordination

Sneezing, nasal discharge, coughing, difficult breathing

Eyes dull, discharging, or swollen Constant, rapid side -to-side movements of eyes

Head tilted

Ears encrusted

Fur dull and ragged

Sores or tumors

Slobbering or malformed teeth

Hair loss on face or body

Sores on feet

Dragging hind lets

Stiff joints

Diarrhea

Abnormal swelling or protrusion of rectum

Swollen tail, encrusted or with sores

Select a pet mouse carefully and quarantine them for about 3 weeks before mixing them in with existing pet mice. Observe the mouse closely and isolate if any behavioral problem persists more than 24 hours. Separate the problem mouse to prevent future attacks.

Pet mice are renowned for their prolific breeding ability. A breading pare of mice can be responsible for 30,000 offspring in a single year.

When breeding a pair of pet mice remove the male from the cage during pregnancy and provide nesting materials. If you have more than one female, two female mice will create a joint nest.

The mouse litter is born hairless with eyes closed. Remove the mother from the litter after weaning. If the mother is left with its offspring after weaning the babies may be subject to cannibalism. Males and females should be separated by 6 weeks to prevent unwanted pregnancy.

The gestation time of a mouse is 20 days resulting in a typical litter of 6 to 8; the litter will feed from the mother for about 3 to 5 weeks before feeding on their own. A male mouse can mate at only 10 weeks of age and a female mouse will mate after only 12 weeks of age.

A pet mouse can be a wonderful addition to any family but realizing the care that goes into providing a healthy environment is the first step in choosing to have a mouse for a pet.

Article References:

Animal World

Spiders have been the subject of many myths and fears, but they are on the most part harmless and benefit man by controlling insect populations.

The large tropical bird-eating spider or tarantula is the most common non-web making spider that is kept as a pet. A few other spider species are the wolf spider, jumping spider, orb-weavers and house spiders though are much smaller than the average pet spider the tarantula and are more likely to escape from a cage.

Smaller spiders, including web makers can be caught and kept for a few days in plastic or glass jars with perforated lids. Supply these temporary pet spiders live insects, sticks to attach webs to and plant leaves covered in moisture. Some spiders may be tamed by offering them meal-worms. Over time the more frequent handling of your pet spider the tamer they will become.

The classic spider's web is built by the orb-weavers, and is often found in gardens. Each strand of spider silk is less than 0.003 mm in diameter: the outer spiral is covered with sticky gum. Vibrations enable the spider to locate its prey, which it kills by biting with venomous fangs.

Pet spiders can be kept in a frequently cleaned glass aquarium tank. The tank should have a locking screen top that can accommodate a reflecting light fixture heat source. The floor covering should be natural gravel and a rock shelter should be provided. To accommodate the size of the pet spider, use rocks of various sizes and arrange them to form a large enough hiding space

Spiders don't drink directly they brush their mouth parts with moisture and require a water dish with a natural sponge for drinking. Feed your pet spider live insects especially locusts and crickets. Pet spiders will also benefit from eating pinkies (hairless newborn mice) which should only be given directly after molting for added vitamins.

*Please note: Live food should be available to your pet spider at all times. Remove any dead insects or pinkies that have not been eaten.

Spiders molt (shed their skin) regularly and during this time period may change color and remain inactive. When you pet spider molts you will notice their coloring appears to be brighter and they will immerge a tiny bit larger.

Spiders are fascinating pets and are extremely enjoyable to observe. When handling a pet spider be aware they are wild and can never completely be trusted when picking them up steer clear of the large fangs located at the front of the head. Though most spider bites are not fatal be aware of any spiders you can not identify.

A pet spider can be a wonderful addition to any family and as with any pet should never be left unattended with children. Education is important when selecting a pet spider, be sure you are capable of supplying proper care and nutrition to your spider. If you have never handled a spider and are afraid of them you may want to continue searching for the best pet that will suit your lifestyle.

Article Rescorces:

The pet spiders

Keeping a skunk as a pet can now be obtained from breeders and some exotic pet stores. Skunks vary in temperament but are often affectionate and docile. Female skunks make the best pets and can be easily housebroken.

Skunks are members of the Mustelidae family and ferrets are their cousins. They are well known for their strong smelling musk which they emit from two anal glands as a natural defense.

Pet skunks are sometimes descended, but a pet skunk is unlikely to use its defense on its owners. Accidents are rare if the animal is handled correctly. A skunk provides a clear warning before spraying by raising its tail and lifting its hindquarters, some even stand on their front legs before spraying.

In case of accidental spraying, a mixture of tomato juice, detergent and water will help remove odor. Local health authorities should be consulted before obtaining a skunk as they are forbidden as pets in some areas because of the threat of rabies.

The striped skunks natural habitat is North America. They are approximately 30 inches in length 7 inches of which are the tail. Skunks are prominently black with two white stripes on the body that join to form a broad white stripe on the head with a long bushy tail. Skunks have sharp claws and the life expectancy of a pet skunk is 5 to 6 years.

Skunks are nocturnal and may be difficult to change over to a day routine. In the wild skunks will go into semi-hibernation during the winter. They prepare for this by increasing their food intake in the fall and tend to be sleepy and sluggish during the winter.

Skunks are borrowing animals and have long claws that should be kept trimmed to a length of ¼ inch from the quick. Nail length is important; in the wild a skunk will dig for food and burrow a home with their sharp claws steadily reducing the length naturally over time.

When handling a pet skunk being aware of its behavior is important. Skunks can never be entirely trusted but become quite tame if handled regularly from an early age, about 5-6 weeks.

Many pet skunks enjoy being stroked and some skunks will demand attention. Never strike a pet skunk as a disciplinary measure, they will not understand the action and may never trust you again.

Exercise a pet skunk by taking it outdoors on a lightweight leash and harness that fastens behind the forelegs. A collar can easily slip over the skunks narrow head.

Skunks are omnivorous, meaning they eat meats, fruits and vegetables. They should be fed once a day in the evening. Feed moderate amounts of food as skunks tend to overeat. A fresh water supply should be constantly available.

Pet skunks require a washable box or basket that can act as a substitute den. A cave-like wicker dog basket with disposable cloths or hay for bedding is ideal. Two skunks can share one large basket.

Housebreaking a pet skunk is easy. A skunk will select one corner away from their den basket for elimination of waste. Put newspaper in this favored spot and change it often. It is not recommended to supply a litter tray for waste matter; your pet skunk will try to burrow in it and is not likely to use it for waste.

Skunks do not breed readily in captivity, if housing skunks of the opposite sex be aware that there is a chance of the female becoming pregnant. Do not bread skunks unless homes are found for the offspring prior to mating.

Preventative healthcare is important to assure the well-being and safety for a pet skunk, annual trips to the veterinarian's office will keep your pet healthy and happy.

In reality skunks are wild animals and should not be trusted or left alone with children. When choosing any pet ask yourself if you are capable of providing quality care, appropriate housing and a balanced diet for the animal. Research the pet you intend to care for before jumping into a responsibility you are not equipped to handle.

Pets bring love and comfort to their owners and a skunk though not a traditional pet can be a loving and compatible addition to any family.

Article References:

Skunk Haven